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When compiling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might foresee renowned award-winning venues. But, situated prominently among these culinary giants is a modest salonu located in a distant area of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. This honour has made the owners completely astonished.

“I’m completely surprised,” states a proprietor, pointing to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their small place achieving such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its former charm. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment definitely delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender consistency.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

It is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this culinary achievement.